Thursday, March 28, 2013

Capitalizing Cambodia

We boarded a sleeper bus and caught some shut eye on our way to the Cambodian capital city of Phnom Penh - still not sure how to pronounce that one.  To avoid yet another "free ride" scheme we insisted that the driver take us to a specific street where we could find our own accommodation.  

After checking in to the humbly named Okay Guesthouse, we set out to indulge in Cambodian culture at the Silver Pagoda.  Here many national treasures reside, including a silver tile floor and golden buddha statues adorned with diamonds.   The architecture here is reminiscent of Buddhist wats we encountered in Thailand.  





The National Museum was beautiful, containing many Khmer relics of from past ages in an open-air setting.  The central courtyard pictured here offered a great resting place.  

Independence Monument stands tall in the middle of a giant roundabout, commemorating Cambodia's  independence from France in 1953.  

Lighting cast on the monument at night makes for a majestic sight.  

The Psar Thmei Market is contained inside a large yellow dome, with several corridors of merchandise spanning outward.  Although you can buy just about anything here, we opted to just look, and smell, around.


What is  that dreadful smell? Mmmm....dried seafood!


Rooftop views from the top of Sorya Shopping Center

Street aerobics sessions are common in the streets on Phnom Penh.  Feel free to jump in and follow the leader, local or tourist alike, body language is universal!

 When we walked by this curious restaurant, we just had to try it - when else will you get the chance to chomp on conveyor belt food! Just order your broth, and start tossing things in.  Watch out for the angry bird-themed fish balls!


After paying a visit to the Russian market for cheap souvenirs, we hesitantly set out to see the Tuol Sleng Prison.  This was a school that was converted into a prison for dissenters during the rule of the Khmer Rouge.  The atrocities that were committed here in the name of the revolution were unspeakable.  Many of the victims were tortured until they admitted to conspiring against the Khmer Rouge, even if they were entirely innocent of such actions.  The prison has been maintained in Phnom Penh as a reminder of the dark days of the revolution.



Cambodia is a land of cultural splendor and tumultuous history.  From the golden ages of Angkor to French colonialism, to the bloody revolution of the Khmer rouge and the Vietnam war, this country has definitely been through a lot.  As we departed Phnom Penh, we reluctantly said our goodbyes to Cambodia and all of its  wonders.  


Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Baddabing, Battambang

Battambang was more or less a rest stop after our intense ruin regimen around Siem Reap.  Our favorite part of this town was the fresh baguettes and good coffee, which probably owe their roots to French colonialism. 

 Unfortunately Kaitlin's sickness from Ko Lanta appeared to return with a vengeance here, confining our explorations to the inside of the hotel for a day.  We blame our dinner at Flavours of India, despite how tasty it was.  When we did manage to get out, we chanced upon some strange and somewhat disturbing statues Wat Damrey Sar.


Gotta get that thingy outta ya, bud...

I don't think he made it  :-(

Don't mess with gramps!

Monks packing onto a moto


Friday, March 22, 2013

Ancient Ruins of Angkor

We flew into Siem Reap with one mission in mind:  To thoroughly immerse ourselves in the ancient ruins of Angkor!  We planned our itinerary to build up to the climax of Angkor Wat, the largest and most magnificent of the Angkor ruins.  Our exploits took us no less than three days of pedaling and plodding in the dire heat of the Cambodian sun.  Fortunately we found ourselves accommodation with a pool, which gave us a refreshing retreat after a day of ruin romping. 

THE FIRST DAY OF ANGKOR!

Welcome to Prasat Kravan! One of the smallest ruins, but not to be overlooked. Its not that small though, see Kaitlin on a bike in the left corner for scale.  



Many of the Angkor ruins, such as Bat Chum, are undergoing restoration.  Its good to know the admission fees are being put to use!

Kaitlin cruising by Sra Srang, the royal bathing pond

Lion and naga statues standing gaurd at the entrance of Banteay Kdei



The weather was extremely hot and dry! It was simply astonishing how much water we had to consume to stay hydrated during this bike excursion.  

Welcome to Ta Som
You can do anything at all


At the far entrance, an ancient tree grows from the doorway


As we started to mount onto our bike to go to the next location, we heard a curious sound: POP......sssssssssssssss.....yep thats the bike tire going flat as a pancake. Who knows how far it is to the nearest repair shop?  At least 12 kilometers separated us from Siem Reap.    Fortunately a group of tourists offered us a ride in their pickup to the nearest police hut.  After struggling with a language barrier we managed to explain our situation to a local.  He fixed up our tire and we were on our way!  Crisis avoided!

After tipping our savior and buying a couple of sodas, we crossed the street to visit Preah Neak Poan.  Not much more to see here other than this little pond...


Our last stop of the day: Preah Khan


Apsara dancers are nearly ubiquitous in the Angkor ruins

THE SECOND DAY OF ANGKOR!!

Determined to visit some more remote sites and take a break from the heat, we hired a tuk-tuk for the day

Kbal Spean (aka River of 1,000 lingas)

Here hundreds of linga figures can be found carved into the bed of a river.  Curious? We think so.

Them are some goooood lingas!

Hey betcha like them lingas, liz!

Why are some of the leaves red? Kind of...morbid...

Not sure this would fly with US safety standards, but in Cambodia, no problemo!  The whole thing was being pulled by a freaking motorbike.

Banteay Srei





Eastern Mebon




Pre Rup

 Ta Prohm


"Hey Kaitlin, I found a tree!"



Posing at the famous Crocodile Tree

Ta Keo



THE FINAL DAY OF ANGKOR!!!

Bayon
Oh dear oh dear is it crowded here!

Bayon Bas Reliefs





Everywhere you go, big brother is watching...


Terrace of the Lepper King - Ah Shade!


Terrace of the Elephants

Don't remember the name of this one...


Baphuon 
Why did you wear those shorty-shorts Kaitlin!?


Angkor Thom South Gate

Angkor Wat (finally!)

The outer walls

 ....still approaching...


Finally inside!










Here we see he central structure, which features 5 prangs.  You are allowed to scale to the upper floor, given that you are dressed appropriately.  Kaitlin, wearing her shorty-shorts,  tried no less than three times to get up, once after having borrowed a sarong from complete strangers to cover up, to no avail.  Her third attempt proved fruitful, leaving Nick hiding is his underwear in a dark corner of the Wat.  Buddha would not smile upon such actions, it would seem.  






Phew...that was exhausting! Time to hit Pub Street for a cold mug of Chang!